The following articles, taken from both Russians and Westerners, are full of useful tips for Tran-Siberian travellers, and relate some first-hand accounts of the journey. Through these, we hope to give a realistic and individual picture of the Trans-Siberian experience. Special thanks to our contributors, Masha, Nuutti, and Brian.
►Masha: From Moscow to Ulan-Ude
►Nuutti: The Fulfillment of a Dream
►Brian: The Journey from West to East
Nuutti: The Fulfillment of a Dream
In the summer of 2005, Nuutti finally realized a dream he had had for ten years. Having gotten a clean bill of health and armed himself with a large supply of salmek (Finnish candies) and a few words in Russian, he set off from his native Finland to take the Trans-Siberian all the way across Asia.
According to Nuutti, the Trans-Siberian offers only two difficulties for the Western traveler, one is getting fed, and the other is dealing with Russian bureaucracy. Getting fed was managed through cooking noodles in his compartment or getting help from strangers, and beer was readily available. The bureaucracy took only patience and perseverance.
There was one other minor problem that Nuutti had, and that was his inability to communicate with the Conductors (Provodniki) on the train, but on the few occasions that he was questioned or required to do something his co-travellers (Sputniki) helped him.
The Journey
His trip started in St. Petersburg and then covered almost all of Russia – Moscow, Ekaterinburg, Novosibirsk – then concluded in Irkutsk. The train was comfortable and new; on the first leg of the journey there was still plastic on the seats. He met a family in his compartment, but was only able to speak English with one of the children. He also met some young men fresh from officer school in Perm. They helped him order in the restaurant car, and with the aid of a few drinks and a drawing pad, the conversation was kept alive. He passed around the Salmek, but the response was poor.
In the charming but hot city of Ekaterinburg Nuutti went to the local University in search of some students with some command of English. He was rewarded for his efforts with a nice young man that took him to a student cafeteria for some cheap eats before going out to a cafe for some beers. On the following day the two rendezvoused and played Russian billiards, an impossible game consisting of balls that are too big and pockets that are too small played on a table that is too large. While playing billiards, he was introduced to some of the student's friends, two girls studying journalism. Following the billiards, he was invited to the newspaper office for a few drinks and a photo session. Again the salmek made the rounds and again no one liked it.
After re-boarding the train, Nuutti met some more helpful people that ordered some excellent soup for him topped of with smetana, Russian sour cream. Now the train moved from the beautiful mountains out onto the great plain of Siberia. Though traveling coupe instead of platzcart, our hero had no trouble interacting with the people in his compartment – except for the language barrier. All across Russia conversations started with "where are you from" and ended shortly after with "what's your name?"
Novosibirsk, the next stop, gave our intrepid traveler his first real difficulties: the Russian bureaucracy associated with registration, the process of showing you belong where you are staying or are staying where you belong. After eight hours of walking and searching for the appropriate hotel in the heavy heat, he finally found it, ironically enough right next to the railway station. After some difficulty and fifty euros, a registration at the hotel was granted. After two days, the highlight of which was a day at the beach with some people that he met there, he decided to change his ticket, shortening his length of stay in Novosibirsk and re-boarding the train. Accomplishing all of this with only knowing the Russian words for "OK" and "yes" and the use of his drawing pad to indicate the change of dates, he rejoined the great railroad. Back on board things immediately became easier and more comfortable.
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East
After a few days of cooking noodles in the coupe our hero noticed the Russian babushki selling foods and wares on the platforms -- salvation! Now he had a solution to the noodles; at each stop he went to the platform to see what kind of sweets and treats were being sold. He continued to taste fresh regional foods every day as he traveled through the heart of Russia.
Lake Baikal was next. From the train one can see the mountains that feed the deepest fresh water lake in the world. It was here that our intrepid hero first encountered anyone from the West, and as fate would have it, three of them were Finnish. The salmek were finally appreciated.
After the magnificence of Lake Baikal, the journey continued on to Irkutsk. With his new Western friends and the salmek supply rapidly diminishing, Nuutti watched as the train entered the East: the architectural changes and the blending of Russian traditions with the traditions of China were obvious. In Irkutsk Nuutti he met a large number of Westerners all heading towards Mongolia like him.
Nuutti’s last day in Russia was spent at the Mongolian border getting processed through customs. After giving himself a shower with a water bottle and a towel, he met up with some of the other westerners on the train. Then he was off to Mongolia for the Nadaam Festival of horse racing, wrestling, and archery, and then six days of camping in the Mongolian countryside. From Mongolia it was off to Beijing, Nepal and finally India, where after enjoying the mystery of the East, our hero longed to return to Russia.
Read more accounts
►Nuutti: The Fulfillment of a Dream
►Brian: The Journey from West to East
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